John approaching the top of the Suidhe climb in the 2026 Etape Loch Ness. Picture: Marathon Photos/Etape Loch Ness

An early start and a familiar circuit offer a chance to enjoy the surroundings and the atmosphere of what has become a bucket-list event for people from around the world

For one weekend a year the streets and cycle paths of Inverness become packed with families and groups as the Etape Loch Ness rolls into town.

The cycle sportive has become a staple on the Highland events calendar, and this was the 12th staging of the event which began in 2014.

I’ve now taken part in 11 of the 12 Etapes and have ridden the 66-mile course around the loch in all weathers, so this year was a real boon with very little wind and bright and sunny conditions at least after the early-morning chill had worn off.

Having got out of bed at the unfamiliar time of 4.30am, it was only three degrees when I left the house and with my brother Alan and his partner Becky. Alan had taken part once, last year, but the event was new to Becky, so they rode together to enjoy the beautiful course on a visit to the Highlands.

This is one of the biggest aspects of the Etape Loch Ness – it brings people to the area from far and wide. During the registration day on the Saturday, I spoke to people from all over England and overseas.

As soon as they realise that I live locally and have done the course several times, they all ask the same question: what is the climb like?

This is the crux of the ride for many people – a massive, steep climb from Fort Augustus up to the Suidhe. It kicks in from the first corner and then rises in a seemingly never-ending fashion that already has some people off their bikes and pushing.

It relents for a while as you drop down to cross the Allt Doe before the steep slog continues on a punishing section up to Loch Tarff, where there’s some more relief on the flat before the final long climb to the summit.

When you are so familiar with the climb, it’s hard to know how to answer the question, because it’s not easy but for me it is a fun part of the route.

The event sees riders complete a circuit of Loch Ness on the 66-mile closed-road event. Picture: Etape Loch Ness

I felt good on the approach this year having enjoyed the ride down through Drumnadrochit and Invermoriston, where plenty of people were out to support the riders, which always gives you a bit of a lift.

I paused briefly in one of the laybys to remove my jacket that I’d been wearing to keep off that chill, but with the hill approaching I knew I wouldn’t want that extra layer now.

The view was spectacular as I rode up the hill, glancing over my shoulder back down to Fort Augustus now and again to see the flat-calm water of Loch Ness, an unusual sight but perfect for the thousands of visitors coming to the area, many for the very first time.

The Etape really does showcase the Highlands as a destination and the atmosphere at the event hub over the weekend is fantastic.

I knew I was on target for my aim of breaking four hours again, which I hadn’t done for four or five years, if I could keep up the pace on the way back. The descent from the Suidhe is always a fast one but I’m quite cautious on the downhills, so just rode at my own pace.

Some beautiful twisting single-track roads lead from Whitebridge through to Foyers and I loved tackling the corners with no traffic around me.

After Foyers, I soon reached Inverfarigaig and glanced at my time. I’d been going for three hours and three minutes. On a normal weekend bike ride, getting back home in under an hour from here would seem unrealistic, but with closed roads and the adrenaline of an event, I knew it was just about possible.

Alan and John relax in the sunshine after the event.

Back through Dores and up the last couple of climbs of the day, I kept telling myself to keep going. Just after Scaniport, a cyclist ahead of me managed to narrowly avoid a red squirrel that picked an inopportune time to attempt to cross the road.

Soon we were back on suburban streets and heading for the centre of town with more supporters out and about.

I crossed the line in three hours, 59 minutes and 12 seconds, according to the official chip time – cutting it fine but just hitting my target for the day.

After the early start, it was only quarter past 10 in the morning, and the rest of the day was ahead of me. I met up with the family and waited for Alan and Becky to complete the ride, then sat in the sunshine outside Eden Court soaking up the atmosphere.

It’s amazing how cycling 66 miles and tackling a challenging climb can be among the most relaxing of days you can have. I’d definitely earned that beer – and the Etape Loch Ness medal.

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