My recent week-long trip through the Western Isles turned out to be something of an adventure. After two wonderful days cycling from Inverness down through the Great Glen to Fort William and on to Oban, I headed on the ferry to Castlebay on the Isle of Barra.
From here I had hoped the prevailing winds would help guide me through the Uists and Benbecula to Harris and on to Lewis, where I would reach the Butt of Lewis before returning to Stornoway to catch the ferry to Ullapool, and ride back to Inverness.
That’s not quite how it worked out, but I had an amazing journey and met some fantastic people.
Read on below the photo gallery for a few excerpts from my diary…
Day one
Inverness to Glen Nevis
65 miles
Pleased to see new section of cycle track from Darris to Dores in use – this will make up part of NCN78 when it’s complete. The view down over Loch Ness never fails to impress from here.Made decent progress to Foyers; saw red squirrel and roe deer. Up to Suidhe viewpoint was slow and cold! Took it easy on way down Glendoe as trailer doesn’t like going over 20mph.
Surprised to arrive at Fort Augustus before noon so continued to Kytra Lock for lunch stop. Decided to use A82 through Invergarry as forest tracks involve more hills and I believe the old railway route is still needing funding to be surfaced. Turned off right before Laggan swing bridge to follow right of way to Clunes alongside Loch Lochy on forest track.
Had another break at Gairlochy where route rejoins canal towpath. Flat for 7 miles to Neptune’s Staircase from here! CMD Arete leading to Ben Nevis looked amazing from the towpath. Headed via Fort William to Glen Nevis campsite for the night.
Day two
Glen Nevis to Oban / Castlebay to Borve (Barra)
51 miles
Woke up to frost and early morning mist. Packed tent away with frost still attached and followed A82 south to Ballachulish. The road isn’t ideal for cyclists but drivers were very considerate and I had no problems on any of the main road sections today. At Ballachulish I picked up NCN78 over the bridge and along the coast. Spectacular views here, especially where cycle track goes under the road and suddenly you are right by the shore.
This is a fine example of what can be achieved in this country if there is the political will to make it happen.
At Kinellan you rejoin the road until Duror where a short new section of NCN78 has been opened. Then back on the road for a while until long off-road section from Appin. The route through to the Sea Life Centre is superb and further sections between there and Oban are great for getting you out of the traffic.
Once at Dunbeg it was only a few miles to Oban. I was there in plenty time for the ferry, so paused outside the town to dry off the tent in the afternoon sun.
Two-and-a-half miles in the dark once I reached Barra, trying to find the campsite in the pitch black! Set up camp by about 9.30pm.
Day three
Borve to Nunton (Benbecula)
41 miles
I awoke to find I was on a superb little campsite and could now see as well as hear the waves crashing against the shore below. A joy to have a dry tent to put away!
Windy heading west to catch the ferry over to Eriskay. Had a quick detour to the beach airfield before heading to Eriskay. Steep climb out of port but soon back down. Made good time with wind at my back and – with forecast set to get worse – had already decided to go further than my intended overnight stop at Howmore on South Uist.
Sailed on after lunch at Kildonan museum and was soon over the next causeway and onto Benbecula. I decided to take the west coastal route rather than go up the spine.
Everything was going well until BOOM! and my wheel rim had split. That was today’s journey over with. I spoke to a chap at the nearby garage and at the house next door. Both agreed the only bike ‘shop’ was back at Howmore. I phoned Tommy and he told me he couldn’t come until tomorrow as he had had a few glasses of wine! So there I was at the side of the road unable to go anywhere.
That’s when Catherine came to my rescue. She happened to be walking past and asked if she could give me a lift anywhere – she suggested a hostel at Nunton, a couple of miles back up the road. After much to-ing anf fro-ing, I got set up there. Everyone was very helpful and I am grateful to the people of Benbecula for their help and hospitality.
Day four
Nunton to Leverburgh (Harris)
32.5 miles
Had a good night’s rest but still felt trapped with no working vehicle to get me out of Nunton! I finally decided just to start packing up ready for the journey. Tommy soon arrived with a replacement wheel for me. He quickly had the cassette fitted and drilled out the Presta valve hole to Shraeder size. Unfortunately shards of the metal were left in the tyre and the tube punctured straight away.
I did a quick repair and we fitted the wheel, adjusted the brakes and away Tommy went. I finished packing and tentatively got on my way. It wasn’t long before I could feel something wasn’t right with the back wheel. I stopped and, sure enough, the repair wasn’t enough for the gaping hole the metal had torn in the tube.
A new tube was my only hope, so I cleaned out the tyre and got a new tube in before setting off again. Soon enough I was heading over the causeway over Grimsay and onto North Uist, finally making some progress again! It was an uncomfortable day wondering if the new wheel would hold out and battling into a headwind most of the way.
I decided to aim for the 4pm ferry to Harris, given that the weather was set to get worse and tomorrow’s sailings may be cancelled. I made it with about 5 or 10 minutes to spare! Stayed at the Am Bothan bunkhouse in Leverburgh as the wind began to pick up, with the plan for tomorrow up in the air.
Day five
Leverburgh
7 miles
The wind was horrendous overnight and continued in the morning, so I stayed put for the day. Took a ride down to Rodel – without any gear – and had a look at St Clement’s Church. Gave me a glimpse of what the ‘east road’ had in store but it was a struggle against the powerful wind coming back to the village.
I was determined to make progress the next day, so headed to bed with the alarm set early…
Day six
Leverburgh to Scaladale
32.5miles
The wind was still blowing but it was nowhere near as bad as yesterday. I had to make some progress today to at least put me within touching distance of Stornoway on Thursday. I left Leverburgh behind as I climbed over the hill towards the beach, though I had to keep pedalling even on the way downhill.
A couple of girls who stayed at the hostel last night had told me about a cafe about 12 miles away, so that was my target. But this was going to be a slow 12 miles.
A glorious single-track road leads along the adge of this golden beach, but I was struggling along at 7 or 8mph and using all my energy just to do that against this horrible energy-sapping wind. The road was truly memorable and on a better day a circuit taking in the west and east roads of Harris would be a fine, if epic, route.
After nearly two hours I reached the Hebrides Art cafe for a brew and a scone. Then I headed inland and uphill through a barren landscape of rocks and peat, but a new road surface made the climb a pleasure. Then at the top I turned towards Tarbet. As I arrived in the town I could feel my back tyre was soft. A repair again proved to not be enough so I put my last spare inner tube in, giving my tyre a full check again.
After lunch, I made another tentative start. I had the energy to go further but the next accommodation stop was 13 miles over the mountain pass – and the next bike shop was in Stornoway. The pass was superb – it begins really steeply then just keeps on climbing. This is no Bealach na Ba, though, and I knew it would end 189m up. Using the granny gears, it was no problem and I must admit I quite enjoyed this climb too.
I decided not to stay at the hostel but continued towards Stornoway, and found an outdoor centre at Scaladale, where I camped in the grounds ready to make for Stornoway in the morning.
Day seven
Scaladale to Stornoway… and Inverness
25 miles
This was a day for the waterproofs – the first of this trip – but thankfully the wind had died down. I set a course for Stornoway and made excellent time compared to the last few days, covering the 25 miles in not much more than a couple of hours. I arranged to meet a friend in town, so enjoyed a catch up before getting the afternoon ferry back to the mainland at Ullapool, where I boarded the Highland Bike Bus rather than pedalling the 60 miles home.